JEWELLERY DIRECT FROM HATTON GARDEN TO YOU

Jewellery Buying Guide

 

Selecting the perfect stone is a crucial part to creating your item of jewellery. We will consult and advise so your chosen stone reflects the balance between its size, quality and your budget.

Natural Diamonds are the most precious and enduring of all gemstones and have long been the ultimate token of love. All diamonds are judged on their own individual qualities.

We believe there are SIX factors to consider when choosing a diamond. These are Carat, Colour, Clarity, Cut, Cost and Creation. On this page we explain more about each point of choice, and provide some handy charts.

 

 

 

 

 

Diamond Shape Guide

Selecting the right diamond shape is a vital part of personalising your chosen item. Every diamond has unique appeal, and understanding the options ensures you'll discover the one that suits your style and story best.

 

 round shaped diamond

 

Round

The round brilliant cut diamond is by far the most popular choice worldwide. In 1919 Russian mathematician Tolkowsky calculated the theoretical proportions for this specific cut in such a way that 100% reflection (sparkle) is obtained. All round brilliant diamonds are polished according to these proportions. This classic shape is perfect for a diamond engagement ring or any other piece of jewellery. The round brilliant has been fashionable in the past, is fashionable today and will always be fashionable in the future. It remains a popular first choice.

 

 princess shape diamond

 

Princess

The princess cut is fast becoming one of the most popular fancy shaped diamonds today. The face-up shape of the princess cut is square and its side profile is an inverted pyramid. Its unique shape and pointed corners put it in a different class than other shapes. Its unique, defining look is distinguishable from other shapes.

 

 Emerald shaped diamond

 

Emerald

With its large pavilion in the lower half, the emerald cut shaped diamond has a unique style. Due to the large table it highlights the clarity of the diamond. Its rectangular shape sets it apart from other shapes in such a way that it is easily identifiable with the naked eye.

 

 Oval shaped diamond

 

Oval

At first sight an oval cut diamond looks quite similar to a round brilliant. However, when looking at it more closely, one can see that it has longer sides and two sharper corners. When considering a ring this shape is excellent for a person who has long, slender fingers.

 

 Marquise shaped diamond

 

Marquise

The marquise cut is a traditional shaped diamond which can be described as the "skinny" brother of the oval. This shape brilliance is further enhanced if surrounded by other shaped smaller diamonds. Carat for carat this unique shape has one of the largest crowns (upper half), making it a good choice to maximise the perceived size.

 

 Pear shaped diamond

 

Pear

The pear, also known as the tear drop, is a traditionally shaped diamond which becomes wide as opposed to longer when the carat increases. This shape is more popular in pendants and earrings.

 

 cushion shaped diamond

 

Cushion

The cushion-cut diamond is a square cut with rounded corners, much like a pillow (hence the name). This classic cut has been around for almost 200 years. It was the most popular shape in its first century of existence (much like the round brilliant today).

 

 
 

 Diamond Sizing Guide: Carat

Carat (Ct) is the term given to the weight of a gemstone. Generally speaking the larger (heavier) the diamond, the more expensive it will be, however it is possible to purchase a larger diamond for less than a smaller one, provided a compromise is made with colour, clarity and cut.

0.25ct diamond

 0.25Ct

0.5 ct diamond

 0.5Ct

0.75 ct diamond

 0.75Ct

 

1 ct diamond

 1Ct

1.5ct diamond

 1.5Ct

2ct diamond

 2Ct

 

3ct diamond

 3Ct

4ct diamond

 4Ct

5ct diamond

 5Ct

 

 
 

 

 

 Diamond Grading Guide: Colour

Diamonds come in many different shades of colour. From totally white (D) to fancy yellow, green, pink or blue. Purchasing a diamond that has been certified by the GIA or HRD laboratories guarantees the colour, clarity, carat weight and cut.

Certified diamonds are usually slightly more expensive than non-certified stones. Diamonds as small as 0.25 carat are now available with certificates. Smaller diamonds set in eternity rings etc are not usually certified. Our standard non-certified diamond quality is G colour and VS purity.

 

colourless diamond

D - F

Colourless

nearly colourless diamond

G - J

Near Colourless

 

faint yellow diamond

K -M

Faint Yellow

very light yellow diamond

N - R

Very Light Yellow

light yellow diamond

N - R

Very Light Yellow

 

 

  Diamond Grading Guide: Clarity

When a rough diamond is found it has spent millions of years evolving in the Earth. Nature is rarely perfect and a totally flawless diamond (IF) is a very rare thing. Most diamonds contain small natural imperfections called inclusions. These imperfections are graded and this partly determines a diamonds value. A diamond that has been certified by the GIA or HRD laboratories guarantees the clarity for that stone.

 

 internally flawless diamond illustration

 

Internally Flawless (IF)

No inclusions are visible to a skilled grader at 10x magnification.

 

 verry verry small inclusions on diamond illustration

 

Very, Very Small Inclusions (VVS1, VVS2)

Minute inclusions, which are extremely difficult for a skilled grader to see at 10x magnification.

 

 Very Small Inclusions on diamond illustration

 

Very Small Inclusions (VS1, VS2)

Minute inclusions that are difficult for a skilled grader to see at 10x magnification and are invisible to the naked eye.

 

 small inclusions on diamond illustration

 

Small Inclusions (SI1, SI2, SI3)

Inclusions are visible under 10x magnification and might be visible to the naked eye (particularly in the case of SI3).

 

 inclusions on diamond illustration

 

Inclusions (I1, I2, I3)

Obvious inclusions are visible to the naked eye and these may affect transparency and brilliance.

 

 

 Diamond Grading Guide: Cut

The cut refers to the make of the diamond. All brilliant-cut diamonds have 52 facets. Two diamonds of the same weight can look different in size. One might look dull compared to another. This is due to its cut. Certificated diamonds will detail the type of cut and symmetry.

Too shallow diamond illustration

 Too Shallow

Ideal diamond depth illustration

Ideal

too deep diamond illustration

Too Deep

 

 

Fluorescence

This is the term given to a natural characteristic that occurs in some diamonds.
Under a UV light some diamonds will show a fluorescence.
This can have an influence on a diamonds value.

 
 
 

Cost

By blending Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat a diamond can be chosen to fit any budget.

With Diamonds, size is not everything!
However, the more money spent, the greater the choice in balancing the carat size and quality of the diamond.

 

 

 
 

 Diamonds on table


 

Diamond Grading Guide: Creation

There are two types of stones. Natural Diamonds and Laboratory Grown Diamonds. Natural Diamonds take millions of years to naturally grow in the Earth. Lab Grown Diamonds are quickly created in a factory using the latest technologies. There is a significant difference between a Natural Diamond and a Lab Grown Diamond's initial and secondhand values. Please ask us for our advice.

For more information please visit our Diamonds page

 

Laboratory Grown Diamonds

Laboratory Grown Diamonds are considered to be Ethically and Environmentally friendly. However their re-sale value is a fraction of that of a Natural Diamond. A decision has to be made between buying a stone that maybe larger, whiter and cleaner than its Natural equivalent, but is almost worthless secondhand.

These stones will be invoiced as Laboratory Grown Diamonds.

For further information, please download our Lab Grown Diamonds guide

Lab Grown Guide

 

 

 

Video Guide

The following 10 minute video from GIA further explains the above concepts.

 


 Hallmark guide

Is it Hallmarked?

Our jewellery is independently tested and hallmarked by the London or Birmingham Assay Office.

Since the Hallmarking Act of 1974, all our jewellery has been independently hallmarked by the British Hallmarking Council. This gives you the purchaser a guarantee of the quality and type of precious metal in our jewellery. All our jewellery carries our own Sponsors mark, Assay Office mark, Date mark, Common Control Mark and Metal Fineness mark.

Make sure before you buy jewellery that it has a proper independent hallmark like ours, otherwise you may not be buying what you think it is.

 

 
 

 Finger Size Guide

 
UK CONTINENTAL USA INTERNAL DIAMETER (MM) INTERNAL CIRCUMFERENCE MM)

A

-

0.25

12.03

37.83

A 1/2

-

0.50

12.22

38.42

B

-

0.75

12.41

39.02

B 1/2

-

1

12.61

39.67

C

-

1.25

12.9

40.22

C 1/2

-

1.5

12.99

40.82

D

1

1.75

13.18

41.42

D 1/2

2

2

13.37

42.02

E

-

2.25

13.56

42.61

E 1/2

3

2.5

13.75

43.27

F

4

2.75

13.95

43.81

F 1/2

-

3

14.13

44.41

G

5

3.25

14.32

45.01

G 1/2

-

3.5

14.51

45.61

H

6

3.75

14.7

46.2

H 1/2

-

4

14.89

46.8

I

7

4.25

15.08

47.4

I 1/2

8

4.5

15.27

48

J

-

4.75

15.46

48.6

J 1/2

9

5

15.65

49.2

K

10

5.25

15.83

49.77

K 1/2

-

5.5

16.03

50.39

L

11

5.75

16.22

50.99

L 1/2

-

6

16.41

51.59

M

12

6.25

16.61

52.19

M 1/2

13

6.5

16.8

52.79

N

-

6.75

17.01

53.47

N 1/2

14

7

17.21

54.1

O

15

7

17.04

54.74

O 1/2

-

7.25

17.62

55.38

P 

16

7.5

17.82

56.02

P 1/2

-

7.75

18.03

56.66

Q 

17

8

18.23

57.3

Q 1/2

18

8.25

18.43

57.96

R

-

8.5

18.64

58.57

R 1/2

19

8.75

18.84

59.21

S

20

9

19.04

59.85

S 1/2

-

9.25

19.25

60.49

T

21

9.5

19.45

61.13

T 1/2

22

9.75

19.65

61.77

U

-

10

19.86

62.4

U 1/2

23

10.25

20.06

63.04

V

24

10.5

20.26

63.68

V 1/2

-

10.75

20.47

64.32

W

25

11

20.64

64.88

W 1/2

-

11.25

20.83

65.48

X

26

11.5

21.02

66.07

X 1/2

-

11.75

21.21

66.67

Y

-

12

21.41

67.27

Y 1/2

-

12.25

21.6

67.87

Z 

-

12.5

21.79

68.47

Z 1/2

-

12.75

21.99

69.09

 

 
 

 Stones For Anniversaries & Dates

 Birthstones

 
MONTH SUGGESTED STONE COLOUR

January

Garnet

Dark Red

February 

Amethyst

Purple

March 

Aquamarine

Light Blue

April 

Diamond

White

May

Emerald

Bright Green

June

Pearl

Cream

July

Ruby

Red

August

Peridot

Pale Green

September

Sapphire

Deep Blue

October

Opal

Variegated

November

Topaz

Yellow

December

Turauiose

Turquoise

 

 

 

 

 

Get in Touch with Our Specialist London Jewellers

If you have questions about choosing diamonds, exploring fine gemstones, or would like a more bespoke jewellery guide, our expert DJ Griffin team is always happy to help. For master jeweller advice or to start your custom jewellery process, contact us at sales@djgriffin.co.uk or call us on 01963 364777.
 

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